Ramadan

          I am posting around one week into the Islamic holy month of Ramadan.  Even while living in America I knew the obligations of Muslims during Ramadan: no eating, drinking, sexual relations, or negative-speech or behavior from sun-up to sun-down.  This part has always been clear, and a few years ago I even practiced this for one day to see how it was.  However, it takes on an entirely different meaning when you are living in a country where everyone practices Islam. 

            From sun-up to sun-down virtually ALL restaurants have shuttered their doors.  Any Christian establishments that want to remain open do so behind a large drape which makes it completely inconspicuous.  We tried going to the liquor store, as they are ostensibly Christian owners, but even they were closed.  We later realized that this was possibly due to ministerial warnings about not opening liquor stores during Ramadan because of increased threats of violence.  For a large portion of the day an already sluggish society moves to a near standstill. 

            Workdays for all public organizations are cut and many people show signs of fatigue.  What I later learned was that the fatigue isn’t all from fasting.  When they break the fast at sundown, 7:30pm, they have a large feast with their families; but there is another pre-dawn meal at 2:30am.  Many students have told me they don’t even go to sleep before 5am during Ramadan.  Much of the daily life, save for work, simply shifts into the twilight hours.  Typically I go to the gym at around 6:30pm; for the next 3 weeks I have to go from 9pm-11pm.  Needless to say, this has decimated my sleep schedule and two of the past three nights I have stayed up all night.  This is akin to the life of a typical Kurd; during Ramadan they stay up nearly all night and then sleep the early parts of the day away.  Admittedly, it is ridiculously hot outside and I too find myself content with the prospects of loafing around. 

            I won’t delve into the specific positive or negative aspects of Ramadan as I don’t want to turn this into an overtly religious discussion.  However, I will make a comment that is, in my opinion, universally applicable to every major religion.   The benefits of Ramadan (fasting, self-denial, cleansing) are often tinged with the same hypocrisy that simultaneously dampens the spiritual benefits (gorging after fasting, sleeping the day away to avoid hours of fasting, forcing women to wear the hijab who normally wouldn’t).  Overall, as with any religion, the core belief is often different than the act of practicing it, especially 1,400 years later in contemporary society.  I am still an outsider trying to learn, and until I get invited to someone’s house for iftar (the feast breaking the fast) I’m going to continue sulking about having to work out at 10pm.