Frustration to Mollification, Mob Money, and Protests

         On countless occasions I have wanted to throw my hands up in the air and resign myself to the belief that the unceasing inefficiency we are presented with would render my stay here fruitless.  It is only through the equally powerful countervailing presence of splendid hospitality that mollifies my state of angst.  It seems that every time we face situations where the outcome is nowhere near what we had hoped for, but unfortunately have come to expect, someone is there to pick us up, often unknowingly, with a simple act of kindness. 

            These efforts are by no means coordinated, for it seems that nothing here is truly coordinated.  I am now convinced that this sense of “otherness” is actually engrained in the people.  Considering the blunders in planning that we encounter on a near daily basis, it seems evident that this overwhelming hospitality is not nascent; it has been cultivated since birth.  Whenever you go to someone’s house you are treated as if you are royalty.  Drinks are brought to you on trays; an array of delectable treats, appetizers, and main courses are laid before you; and they will expect nothing from you but your company.  I can honestly say that I wish people were this friendly and welcoming in the United States. 

            After class many of my students will not even leave the room before I do.  No one will allow me to open a door for them as they must hold it for me.  If we ever reach to pay for something our efforts are almost always thwarted.  To become a member at the local gym there is a fee of 25,000 IQD/month ($22).  I have been going for over a month and have not once been asked for anything.  One of my friends even stated, “They wouldn’t dare.”  I was slightly confused by this at first, but in the overall context of their deference to foreigners it makes more sense.  Their laissez-faire attitude is no doubt amplified because I am an American and they want me to feel welcome in their country.  In my personal life here, this is greatly appreciated and has no doubt made a lasting impression. 

            Contrarily, when it comes to my working life, wrangling with this lack of real productivity and laid back attitude has left quite an impression as well.  Sometimes it feels as if people around us brainstorm the best and most efficient way to achieve a goal; and then summarily execute the opposing approach.  If it was not for the ability to work out and play sports on a near daily basis, combined with the convivial nature of the people, I’d probably be feeling much more reticent about sharing this experience.  Alhamdulillah (Thank God) for mixed blessings. 

Mob Money    

            Iraq has a largely cash economy.  There is little to no evidence of credit cards, save for the major institutions, and many citizens do not even hold bank accounts.  They simply keep all of their cash at home.  So far, we haven’t really had much of a need for plastic, and due to our limitations on activities in town, our expenses have managed to stay fairly low.  We are paid a salary of $2,500 per month and probably spend around $350.  The rest of my money is primarily allocated to student loans, despite my inner grumblings about the cost of higher education in America.  Herein lays the problem.  In a primarily cash economy with an inchoate banking system, my options to repatriate my income are extremely limited.  Evidently, Western Union does not ship money to the United States due to worries about money laundering, and many banks here do not even have the capability to wire cash to Western banks.  I am faced with two stark choices: keep all of my cash in my room, or pay an exorbitant fee of 2.5% to wire it back home. 

            As this picture indicates, having this much cash on hand is reminiscent of playing Monopoly.  Last month I was paid in all $100 bills; this time I was paid in denominations of 10,000 IQD…totaling 2.4 million.  When I was handed the manila envelope folded over it felt as if I had just earned my way into the mafia, or just consummated a major drug deal.  It was comic yet concerning; I don’t know of any American who would carry this much cash, especially given our adversity to risk.  I aim to resolve this situation as soon as possible, even if that means buying some chrome colored suits and hiring a few henchmen.  At least I can pretend I’m in the mafia…

Protests

            First emerging in the Middle East with the Arab Spring, and now diffusing across the globe with Occupy Wall Street, it seems as if 2011 is the year of protests demanding social change.  Considering I was in NH when protests erupted in the Middle East, and am now in the Middle East as protests are spreading across the US and Europe,  I have yet to come into contact with any major movement.  I happen to think that protests can be a valuable tool, but the end game and how your movement plans to change reality is the primary concern.  For this reason I probably would not be partaking in any protests if I were back home; however, I still want to see what is going on!  

            Well, it seems as if my wish was granted, at least to a minor degree.  We heard that 500+ students were planning a protest outside the University of Duhok to demand changes in the education system.  Feeling a tinge of excitement, I was ready to see the power of collective action!  Going outside the university I managed to see about 100 people chanting fairly loudly, with many holding signs that I could not read due to the language barrier.  The mantra of this whole ordeal was beyond me, but I was nevertheless interested.  News crews were there to capture the action and were interviewing charismatic students.  And then, almost as quickly as people gathered, they went off in their own directions.  It had to be the quickest protest I have ever seen.  After noting their lack of resolve, at least compared to OWS and the Arab Spring, we joked that they all seemed to say, “Well, we made our point. I hope they heard us and do something.  Let’s go have tea.”  At least I got to see some form of protest, despite its fleeting nature.