A Small Taste of Western Life

         Trips to Erbil are fast becoming my escape from the quaint surroundings of Duhok.  Culturally, Duhok is far closer to the “traditional” Kurdish lifestyle; it seems pure, peaceful, and relatively untouched by the West or our way of life.  Time moves slowly and the people are highly content with living in their own cordoned off space in the world.  Contrarily, Erbil is what I have referred to as the “New York” of Kurdistan.  There are numerous bars, high-end hotels, and establishments that serve Western food (although almost always knock-offs and continually spelled incorrectly).  Investment in the region is booming, and much of it is directed to Erbil.  If I were living here I would not be truly immersing myself in the culture of the average Kurdish person.  It would be closer to what I am used to and for that reason I would not be happy here for my 13 months.  However, the trappings of small town life are no different in Kurdistan than they are in the US, and every once in a while you need to get out in order to maintain appreciation for your original goals. 

            This trip to Erbil to recruit for Seton Hall at the Education USA fair provided just that.  I was able to stay in one of the luxurious hotels in Kurdistan, eat food that I could readily recognize and pronounce, and hear English on a regular basis.  After feelings of seclusion start to build, even the most trivial of enjoyments can bring great pleasure; to even see parmesan cheese was a delight.  Being able to consistently communicate with those around me seemed like music to my still Kurdish tone-deaf ears.  There were some great people here from all across the US as well as the KRG, and I hope to create lasting connections with them.  The trip was incredibly worthwhile, and having the first person I met working for Southern New Hampshire University certainly set the trip off on the right foot. 

The students that I spoke with were eager to learn about the opportunities of higher education in the US, and I hope that they give Seton Hall an honest look.  Overall, probably around 800-1,000 students attended this college fair over the course of two days.  I am exhausted from having to deal with what seemed like swarms of bees at times, where students would flock to the table in bunches ready to pepper you with numerous questions.  My beard also seemed to be a common topic of conversation.  It prompted many questions asking if I was Muslim; comments that I looked Eastern; and multiple visitors asked if I was Saudi Arabian.  Oddly enough, I was also hit on probably 5-6 times at the event.  For a country that is more socially conservative than the US, I was taken aback by this.  One woman even stated, “you look like an Islamic man with a pure heart; it is very nice. If I were younger I would marry you and stay with you forever.”  Despite the awkwardness of certain comments like these, it is at least refreshing to know that I can pass as a local if I refrain from opening my mouth.  When curious glances or stares seem to follow you wherever you go, feelings of at least visibly belonging can boost confidence in your ability to assimilate.  Considering I will be here for 13 months, this is quite important. 

For me, trying to “belong” in the community is important.  After going to the UN Compound as well as the US Consulate, I was quite thankful for my ability to move freely around the country and throw myself into the local way of life.  For those privileged enough to work at the UN or the Consulate, they are often flanked by numerous security guards and have strict rules about leaving the compound.  More than once I heard it referred to as a prison.  While these positions are idealized by young students of international relations, the reality of working abroad in this capacity seems to be more constrained than it is glamorous.  I appreciate being able to connect with these people, and I respect what they do on a daily basis, but I do not feel envy.  I enjoy my freedom too much for that. 

As I prepare to go back to Duhok I leave refreshed, increasingly confident in my decision, armed with new connections, and possibly another job teaching English at a private university.  There was no better way to celebrate the success of this trip than by partaking in something I have not done in years; taking a nice, warm bath.  After cozying up in the tub with a good book, “Great Expectations,” by Charles Dickens, I am ready to head back to my “village” tucked in the mountains.  Just as Pip undertakes a journey of self-exploration in the story, I am essentially navigating my own path to do the same.